When the entire tank of water is hot, the heat stops until the temperature goes down either as a result of just sitting in the tank and gradually cooling, or by hot water being drawn off for use in the house. Cold water come in, goes to the bottom of the tank via a dip tube, is heated, and rises to the top of the tank. Likewise, it is good practice to drain the tank yearly to flush out sediment. A T/P valve should be tripped manually every year, but many of us don't do it. A pressure regulator valve without an expansion tank would cause the T/P valve to trip, but your post did not indicate that you have a pressure regulator valve in your water supply. I don't want to sound disrespectful, but your questions indicate that you really don't have much of a clue about a water heater, and I would urge you to have a plumber evaluate your problem and do whatever revisions and repairs are necessary. So currently, I turned off the water completely, switched the gas knob to off and awaiting some divine intervention.
There is just WAY too much drainage outside to be normal and it's been going on a very long time and releasing the pressure stops it outside, but causes it to drip inside from around the switch. Both overflows are either steady drips (valve side) or steady streams (outside). Or is it like a toilet bowl tank that stops when it reaches a specific point? If it is, it's not stopping! It's not like water is gushing out. My thought is that if I make it start with an empty tank, maybe it will just cut off when it knows how much water was added. Should I completely drain the water heater and then turn everything back on? That was another option, but a painstaking one. There must be a step by step process to this. But as soon as I turn the water back on, I can hear that pipe filling up again and here comes the dripping all over again either outside or at the valve. Try #2: Another thing I tried was to turn off the water, lift the pressure valve and let it drain out until it stops dripping and the outside stops also. Not being a pro, common sense says that this water heater is filling up too high and is overfilling which is causing this overflow. The only way it stops is if I cut off the water to it and for obvious reasons, that works, but that also means no hot water. And when that stopped, the pressure valve would start dripping again. When it finally stopped, I would go outside and the outside was a steady stream again. I left it like that for a minute or so, but it only would release a steady dripping. I turned the water back on, then I lifted the pressure lever valve, but water leaks out from the lever, so i put a bucket underneath it. Again, I took a picture and posted it here at Try #1. If closed, "up, up and away" into the ceiling and then some magical mystery maze until it navigates the overflow outside to that drenched area. If the spicket is open, the overflow comes out there. It goes down about 4 inches, does a U-turn back up, then 90 degrees across the top of the heater and then T's up into the ceiling and down to a spicket. I have pictures of this thing with text at The pressure valve is on the side of the unit, but the line from it does not go straight down towards a drain in the floor though like I've seen in a lot of examples of how it "should be".
After some research I found that I should be releasing pressure annually from the hot water heater, but after 2 hours of messing with this, I give up.įirst off, this is a Whirlpool gas water heater, model FG1F4034T3NOV. My wife cut the water to the hot water heater and the outside stream stopped. I'm very concerned about my foundation being affected this close to the house. The entire outside of my house near that area was completely soaked where your foot would literally sink in 4 inches into the soil. Turns out that the PVC overflow pipe coming out of the side of my house is streaming a thin stream of very hot water. 3 days ago I noticed that there was a part of my driveway that has not been dry for a long time.
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